Camera Checklist

Things to take if shooting outside the Studio

• A suitable camera - the large HD cameras are better quality and look professional, these are sometimes stored in a large black bag, on tripods in the studio, or in the grey cupboard next to the studio lighting desk. The DV Canon cameras are more portable and less obtrusive, these are stored in silver flight cases ('DV1' and 'DV2') on the shelves in the studio.

• Battery - these should be left on charge from the last use. All chargers are located on the edit PC desk.

• Tape - DV tapes can be used for recording in HD or in DV. Some YSTV tapes are aged and faulty, if you have time be sure to check the playback. The tapes are located above the edit PC desk.

Optional

• Tripod - Check if it has its quick release (they often accidentally get left on cameras), otherwise it's useless! Tripods are kept by the door to the studio, under the shelves.

• External Microphone - Essential for recording individual voices in noisy environments, or recording interviews outside. Remember external microphones record in mono (not stereo).

• White paper - If shooting in a location where there is not a white reference point, a sheet of paper will be needed to white balance the shot.

• Headphones - to check sound is recording properly, particularly if sound is manually set.

Camera Regulations

All camera operators must be camera trained by the training manager or an appropriate officer. This assures you will film useable footage and that our cameras are in safe hands.

If you plan to use a YSTV camera off-campus, you must obtain permission from a team leader.

Composing a shot:

General Views (GVs):

These are good for doing ‘voice-overs’ during editing. They set the scene or introduce a topic, they can also be used as a pause or transition between topics.

It is often good to have some movement, by means of panning, tilting, dollying, jibing, zooming, focus pulls or any combination of these. It is usually best to make any movement as gradual and steady as possible. A tripod should be used, especially for static GVs.

Perspective: This relies heavily on ‘Zoom’.

With the camera close to the subject and at a wide setting there is a lot of coverage of the background. This is good if the subject is a person talking about something in the background.

With the camera further from the subject but zoomed in, the subject appears the same size as before on the screen, but there is less coverage of the background and objects in the background appear larger. This is good if you want to draw attention to the subject, but activity in the background may be even more distracting. Also sound may be a problem with the camera a long way away if the subject is a presenter and there’s no external microphone.

Interviews:

Using a tripod is certainly recommended to avoid a shaky, hypnotising shot. Though it often takes time to set up and this sometimes deters strangers from being interviewed.

Usually it is best to ask the interviewee to look at the interviewer and not at the camera. If you want the interviewer in shot in an ‘over-the-shoulder’ style make sure they don’t obstruct the shot of the interviewee too much.

If you want the interviewer’s and interviewee’s faces to be seen, and one is a lot shorter than the other then asking them to sit down may be best so their heads are at the same level. If you do want them standing then inclines or stairs are useful (but don’t make them visible in the shot).

Generally it is best for subjects’ eyelevel to be about two-thirds the way up the screen, and have the camera at their eye-level. Many of our tripods do not extend above 5’6” so this is not always possible.

Having the camera looking down at the interviewee (ie with it above their eye-level) may make them look inferior. Having the camera looking up at the interviewee (ie with it below their eye-level) may make them look authoritative.

Action Shots:

These are often used at music shows or sport events. They often require sudden and rapid movement of the camera. This is very difficult as it combines many operations of the camera, zooming and focussing simultaneously can be especially difficult when also keeping the subject near the centre of a moving shot (autofocus can be unreliable in dark or rapidly-changing shots).

Terminology (Not Often Used):

Optical axis:Along the line of sight of the camera, it is from the back of the camera to the lens centre.

Pan:Camera remains stationary but rotates left or right about its vertical axis.

Tilt:Camera remains stationary but rotates up or down about its horizontal axis perpendicular to its optical axis.

Roll: Camera remains stationary but rotates anticlockwise or clockwise about its optical axis (useful for unusual shots).

Zoom: Zoom in makes the subject larger on the screen (more telephoto, larger focal length, lesser angle of view).

Zoom out makes the subject smaller on the screen (more wide, smaller focal length, greater angle of view).

Jib: Camera doesn’t rotate but is moved vertically up or down.

Dolly: Camera doesn’t rotate but is moved horizontally in some direction.

Focus Pull: When a shot is made to change to (or from) being entirely blurred from (or to) focussed on a particular object – or from being focussed on one object to being focussed on a different object.